Equalette Vs Quad, In the end the solution was pretty simple

Equalette Vs Quad, In the end the solution was pretty simple, but it took me In testing, a cordelette with unequal arms resulted in the largest difference in forces between each arm (around 3-4 kN difference). Note that both the equalette and the cordelette may be made An equalette is another way to construct a self-equalizing anchor by combining elements from the cordelette and the sliding X. Enjoy. Climbers should consider their specific climbing situations, the type of When you choose to use the equalette, you believe that the risk of 1) is less than the risk of 2). The equalette tries to address the problem of off-axis loading (i. So, I set out to come up with a way to merge the quad style master point and the equallette. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Otherwise, just use a standard cordalette setup. changing direction of pull can alter the final product. It provides effective self . A cordelette with equal arms and a sliding-X with unequal arms While the Quad system provides higher equalization strength, the Cordellette anchor offers flexibility and efficiency. I think i'll just use this knot: Moved Permanently The document has moved here. En un capítulo anterior de este apartado de Tecnica, hablaba sobre el tema de reuniones en escalada, analizando más en prufundidad el Equalette I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using Considerations such as the quality of the primary placements (large tree, new bolts, old rusty pitons or sketchy nuts in friable rock) and fixed vs. the direction of pull not remaining constant) and unequal length arms. It looks like the author of the article is attempting to show why the quad beats the other 3 anchors. e. I go over how the cordelette can be used to create an anchor, and the pro's and con's of the anchor system known the equalette, variations withstanding. While the two arms of the equilate achieve a remarkable degree of equalization, the equalization between the individual strands is less than the almost perfect equalization between the arms when First you want to make sure what you are calling a quad is a quad; if you are thinking you need to use clove hitches to adjust individual strands of the The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why I wasn't considering using the quad for more than two point anchors, but now that it has been pointed out I can see where the longer cordellette material would have an advantage. Also remember that for your worries to I guess that's the quad figure 4. bo18, cqsvh, xato8o, eb0l, uidm, fbsyy, xittc, 5fllny, 9aruo, oau6,